It was nine crazy days of films, books, panel discussions, whiskey-tastings, live bands, and galas. It was jaw-dropping inspiration, rubbing elbows with legends, and making new friends. It was milling crowds, book signings, thoughtful interviews and quiet gatherings over coffee. It was everything you’d expect, and more.
After a few exhausting, exhilarating days, here are some random highlights from the 25th Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival:
Tom Hornbein
Fifty years ago, Hornbein and partner Willi Unsoeld ascended the daunting West Ridge of Everest, survived a bivouac high on the South Col Route, and completed the first traverse of any 8000m peak. Tom attended the festival this year as part of the Voices of Adventure Series (these yearly conversations with former Canadian Alpine Journal editor Geoff Powter are always a highlight), providing highly articulate and engaging commentary. Just so darn humble and friendly, Tom stuck around for the entire festival, sharing stories over meals, making everyone feel like an old friend. Meeting Tom was particularly personal for me, as his book – Everest: The West Ridge – was one of only two adventure books I found in my father’s library after he passed many years ago. The other was Wilfred Thesiger’s Arabian Sands. Now each one bears the author’s signature.
Don’t Judge a Book by the Cover
I was honoured to be part of the three-person book jury again this year. The calibre of writing was once again astounding. When the 30-odd books arrived in summer, I remember flipping through the pile, and instinctively feeling “uninterested” in three. Of those, two won awards, and the third proved to be a serious contender! The jury experience always leaves me simultaneously awed at the volume of great adventure literature produced in just 365 days, and aware that there is always room for more unique voices – which I hope encourages all aspiring authors out there.
The Once and Future World
J.B. McKinnon visited Banff to present his important new book, and all I want to say is this: read it!
Vistas Dining Room and Maclab Bistro
These two on-campus eating and coffee spots are always a highlight. Here you’ll find authors, filmmakers, legends, and enthusiasts all gathered informally. My advice: don’t be shy. Walk up, introduce yourself, sit down and share a coffee.
National Geographic Pitch Sessions
Every year, senior editors and managers from the many arms of National Geographic (photos, web, television, grants, books, lecture series, etc.) attend the festival and host pitch sessions, where they share what they’re looking for in stories and content, and how to best present your material. For anyone pursuing such a career, face-to-face meetings with the Nat Geo gate-keepers are worth the price of admission alone. Always revealing and inspiring.
Apa Sherpa
Apa (21 Everest summits) was the focus of my time in Banff, because on Thursday night, after a short film and slide presentation, we joined in conversation on-stage. Self-effacing, humble, enthusiastic, deeply committed to family and community, generous of spirit, Apa was a powerful reminder – as the Sherpa people always are – of what matters in the frenetic world of high-altitude mountaineering.
Cecile Skog
A Norwegian adventurer, and first woman to complete the “Grand Slam” (reaching both poles and seven summits), Cecile headlined the popular Saturday night event in Eric Harvie Theatre, giving a deeply felt account of what draws her to physically arduous expeditions and inhospitable environments.
North of the Sun (Winner, Grand Prize, People’s Choice and Dolby Audio awards)
On the rocky shore of a remote Arctic island, two Norwegian adventurers built a cabin of flotsam and overwintered in a skiing and surfing paradise – without sunlight. Absolutely stunning. Do yourself a favour and see this – it’s available On-Demand on Vimeo.
Keeper of the Mountains (Special Jury Mention)
Most climbers will recognize the name Elizabeth Hawley, rigorous chronicler of Himalayan ascents and attempts dating back to the 1960s. As the grand dame of the Himalaya turns 90, this film offers a endearing glimpse at her life and contributions to Himalayan mountaineering.
Everest – The First Ascent: How a Champion of Science Helped to Conquer the Mountain (Winner, Mountaineering and Wilderness Literature)
While attending the 40-year celebration of the 1953 Everest climb, Harriet Tuckey – alienated daughter of physiologist Griffith Pugh – catches hint of her father’s enormous (and entirely unrecognized) contribution to the expedition. Not until a decade after Pugh’s passing did she commit herself to uncovering the truth. The result is this unexpected, ground-breaking and entirely brave book, which challenges both lionized figures and events previously regarded as set in stone. Meticulously researched, honest, and fair, Tuckey’s book reveals not only her father’s enormous contributions to the 1953 Everest ascent, but also towards modern practices of acclimatization, hydration and nutrition. In doing so, she fills important historical gaps.
Tim Cope
The dude won the prestigious People’s Choice Award for his film two years ago, and returned this year to capture Grand Prize in the book competition with On The Trail of Ghengis Khan. When fog stranded us both at the Calgary Airport, I shared a four-hour drive with Tim, and quickly learned what everyone who meets him knows: he is even more humble, gentle and down-to-earth than he appears in his films… if that is possible!
High Tension (Winner, Best Film – Mountain Culture)
You may have read about the altercation between climbing Sherpas fixing ropes and a team of experienced alpinists (Steck, Moro) on Everest’s Lhotse Face this spring, but seeing the events unfold on camera is shocking and sobering. That Sender Films produced a reasonably balanced 40-minute documentary about such controversial events is impressive. Ultimately, the piece is not an indictment of any individual so much as a revelatory look at the lamentable state of modern Everest climbing, and the persisting inequity in Sherpas’ treatment on those expeditions.
Final Word
You might attend the “Best of Banff World Tour” screening annually, but just once, make the effort to attend the real thing in person. The festival is so much more than an expanded version of the tour – you won’t be disappointed, and will surely walk away inspired.